Thick wool high-neck jumpers, simple wool coats and knit cardigans are once again starring in men's fashion, though with a less rigid appearance than in the past, according to DPA. The wool coat is now combined with slightly worn jeans, whilst the cardigan is worn with a long shirt that visibly protrudes below. The knit waistcoat, also referred to by the English term "sweat vest", returns with thick wool patterns.
After years of oversized silhouettes and logo-driven streetwear, men's fashion is now leaning towards more tailored cuts and better fabrics, according to stylist Lukas Blasberg. Wide trousers are losing ground to more slender proportions, and the classic suit adopts fitted silhouettes frequently combined with pleated trousers and a tie. Sports trainers and sturdy boots replace elegant leather shoes, whilst the jacket and trousers no longer need to be made from the same fabric.
The blouson is establishing itself as a key piece in autumn-winter collections, presented by brands such as Acne Studios in burgundy or with a shearling collar, and by Zegna combined with check prints and pleated trousers. Blousons frequently include marked seams, textured surfaces and deliberately worn materials that reflect a more honest and artisanal aesthetic, according to professor Sabine Resch of AMD Akademie Mode & Design in Munich.
Corduroy, velvet, thick wool and leather characterise many current collections. In the colour palette, brown, camel and olive green maintain their importance, whilst intense shades such as red act as colour accents. Check prints also return, though in large sizes or textured rather than with the conservative British air of the past.
More extravagant trends include transparent tops, pronounced necklines and sequins in men's collections, with brands such as Dsquared2, Miguel Vieira and Dior incorporating them in their designs. Brooches emerge as an emerging accessory for men, with Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren Purple Label and Kolor presenting variants in their collections.
