Recombinant enzymes allow cosmetic actives to penetrate deeper into skin

Recombinant enzymes, proteins engineered through biotechnology, allow cosmetic actives to penetrate up to nine times deeper into the skin, according to Dr María Pilar de Castro, a cellular and molecular biologist.

By El Medio Oriente
August 30, 2026
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María Pilar de Castro, a doctorate holder in cellular and molecular biology, develops technology based on recombinant enzymes to improve the penetration of cosmetic actives into the skin. (Telva — Belleza)
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Although creams and serums are applied daily to facial skin to combat signs of ageing such as wrinkles and blemishes, these products frequently fail to penetrate sufficiently. Recombinant enzymes, proteins engineered through biotechnology, offer a solution by allowing cosmetic actives to reach deeper layers of the skin where cellular regeneration occurs.

According to María Pilar de Castro García, a European doctorate holder in cellular and molecular biology and strategic and technical director of Proteos Biotech, the skin's natural barrier has so far prevented actives from penetrating properly. "With keratinase, we can reach the deeper layers where they can perform various functions," the expert stated.

Keratinase PB333, one of the recombinant enzymes developed by Proteos Biotech, acts on the bonds that hold the most superficial skin cells together, promoting more efficient skin renewal. De Castro asserted that this is "a biological mode of action that improves the absorption and retention of actives, enhancing their efficacy compared to a conventional cosmetic".

The company presented the new Smartker Daily cosmetic line, which incorporates these recombinant enzymes in its formulation. De Castro described the approach as "applied science" rather than cosmetics inspired by clinical research.

Recombinant enzymes deepen cosmetic penetration in skin | El Medio Oriente