If your curls look or feel different than they did a decade or two ago, they probably are. For those over 50 with curly hair, ageing can contribute to changes in their overall definition and internal structure. "Most people are surprised to discover that the curl pattern is not fixed, it's really rooted in biology," celebrity colorist and hair expert Kadi Lee explains to Bazaar. "It depends on the shape of the hair follicle, which evolves with age, often becoming more round and less asymmetrical, so that tight curls can loosen into softer curls or waves over time."
Like most transitions in beauty, changes in curly and wavy hair are largely individual. However, experts point out that hormonal changes, particularly during perimenopause and menopause, can affect the growth cycles of curly and wavy hair, hair shaft diameter and overall density. "As we age, hair often becomes brittle, thinner, drier and more fragile because the scalp produces less natural oil or sebum," explains Sharley Viola, associate director of educational marketing at Curlsmith. "Some people experience their curls loosening, while others may notice their hair becoming rougher, frizzier or more textured over time."
Viola also notes that women aged 50 and over should prioritise incorporating light but deeply nourishing products into their regular routines, including gentle shampoos that revitalise the scalp, moisturising conditioners, rich leave-in conditioners and deep conditioning treatments. These essentials not only facilitate hair detangling but also help minimise shaft fragility while offsetting the natural slowdown in oil production in the hair.
"The goal is maximum protection with minimum weight," says Ni'Kita Wilson, vice president of product development at Pattern Beauty. In addition to keeping a stock of moisturising essentials on hand, professionals advise reformulating your night-time routine to protect delicate curls while you sleep. "Protection of the hair you have against unnecessary friction and breakage becomes especially important," Wilson adds. Incorporating silk or satin pillowcases, hair scarves or bonnets can reduce the unnecessary friction that can contribute to breakage.
If you prefer to alternate between natural curls and sleek looks, heat protection is non-negotiable to preserve bounce and definition, especially for the integrity of mature hair. Similarly, experts say that consistently colouring your hair can contribute to a weaker curl pattern in mature hair, particularly if it involves chemical processing such as permanent colour, bleaching or highlighting. While abandoning colour or heat styling altogether is not mandatory, it is important to approach each with intention.
"Colour processing opens the cuticle and alters the internal structure to deposit pigment, disrupting the very bonds responsible for curl shape. The bottom line is not to avoid colour; it's that aged curly hair needs more support, deeper conditioning and more time between treatments to protect a curl pattern that is already fragile," Lee adds. "Heat should be used sparingly, if at all, as the thinner shafts of shrunken follicles have less structural integrity to spare."
Wilson agrees, noting that choosing the right tools, such as Pattern Beauty's Vibrating Straightener, which provide the desired result while minimising total heat, tension and manipulation is key. "The practical answer is that mature curls may have less room for error," she adds. "A thinner shaft, previously coloured or already damaged, has less structural reserve to sacrifice to repeated intense heat styling." According to professionals, as curly and wavy hair matures, it becomes more fragile, more prone to dryness and more susceptible to heat damage.
And for those dealing with thinning and ageing curls? In addition to avoiding tight and high-tension styles to protect both hair shafts and follicles, Lee advises being deliberate about scalp health, both internally and externally. "Our Healthy Hair Duo, the Root Replenish Active Growth Serum and the Essential Wellbeing Complex, is built precisely around that," she says. "Root Replenish supports the scalp topically, whilst Essential Wellbeing Complex supports hair density and thickness from within." For immediate fullness, using light styling products, such as Pattern Beauty's Curl Mousse or Innersense Organic Beauty's I Create Lift Volumizing Foam, can encourage root lift, helping curls that need it appear fuller.
